Milan’s Fall/Winter 2017 Womenswear Fashion Week “recipe”? 174 collections plus a handful of great energy and a sprinkle of awesome people joining the mayhem.
Milan is commonly known as the house for big fashion names, without excluding the new brand names under the fashion radar. The questioni is, if brands such as Lucio Vanotti, Gabriele Colangelo and Arthur Arbesser, had chosen a different city to showcase their collections would they have experienced a bigger attention?
How do these newer brands create their stories? How do they go about communicating their own individuality? How do they state their position?
For some of them, commercial trends become their demonstration tool; for others conceptual aesthetics become their guiding board.
Nowadays, product has lost its relevance; it has become sort of a ticket for the new players trying to settle in the fast paced world of fashion. The brands's knowledge and skills are directed towards the marketing departments rather than towards the core of the brand. The brands sense the urgency for new capital, new investments, efficient communication; in short, it's all about business promotion.
The news for this season were highlighted by the “unisex” notion, as seen in the Gucci's and Bottega Veneta's unique runway shows. Is that the new direction where all the labels will be enterprising?
Versace focused on the women's strengths: the woman's worth in today's world. She is strong, sexy, independent, rebellious and powerful. Versace is reshaping the most typical canons of the house like the final part of the show with the featuring of metal mesh dresses in different colors.
Emilio Pucci’s designer collaboration with the revolutionary Russian Stylist Lotta Volkova (stylist of Vetements and Balenciaga) integrated his post-Soviet molt, bringing forward a contemporary spirit enhanced with the Pucci’s vibes and colorful paisley.
Francesco Risso of Marni debut with womenswear included micro belts, '70s-inspired checks and plaids, synthetic fur coats and skirts, bustier strapless dresses and evening dresses with big sequins made of recycled CD.
Undoubtedly a mix of good elements and an enchanting style. Whether it will be convincing or not, will shall wait and see...
Marco de Vincenzo slowly but authoritatively is building his own personal way. The brand's Fall/Winter 17 looks are full, eccentric and rich in imagination, textures and colors. Classical old pieces are remixed and styled with new ones, confirming Marco de Vincenzo as one of the most talented designers.
Arthur Arbesser is one of the designers whose stylistically is distinctly maturing . His Fall/Winter17 collection was raw but colorful with an underground touch. Metallic fabrics, pink plastic and experimental knitwear were some of the components leading the show.
Waiting for the Prada show is always a spectacle itself. The anticipation was worth its while, as the audience was once again please fully amazed.
Miuccia presented a beautiful chaos, mixing seduction elements, like fur, large vents, flowers, embroideries and pin-up prints with elements of a committed feminist woman. A pure game of opposites: day and night, smooth and rough, masculine and feminine fabrics, folk and couture.
Jil Sander gave its best with this season's collection. Designed by Rodolfo Paglialunga, the monochromatic collection was based on the reinterpretation of the corporate dress. Beautiful and wearable garments prevailed.
Gucci's Alessandro Michele new appointed creative director of the brand remained faithful and loyal to his vision. A highly refined show "inhabited" by curtains, sheets, fabric pieces, paintings, amulets, bees, peonies and so on.
Last but not least, Francesco Scognamiglio's new collection was deeply rooted on nature with an innate elegance creatively illustrating the birth, the metamorphosis of a butterfly. An honest homage to the beauty and femininity defining every woman once she sheds her "cocoon". An ethereal presence embraced by chiffon and silk, with cuts and cutouts that play with shadows and a peek-a-boo effects.
The Milanese Fashion Scene is undoubtedly evolving, and we are keeping all eyes wide open for the next time around.