Arthur Arbesser - Fall/Winter 2017/2018

BACKSTAGE

A taste from Arthur Arbesser’s backstage Fall/Winter 2017/2018 Collection; his vision is undoubtedly fresh and utterly unique for the Milanese standards. Here we share a few insights of the major sources of inspiration for the Vienna born designer. Pure love!

“Wings of Desire”, the movie directed by Wim Wender’s in 1987 was the starting point for Arthur Arbesser’s Fall/ Winter 2017/18 collection. The modern fairytale has provided the designer with various ideas and thoughts for the new season; a rich and vivid imaginary seeking to link romance and purity and to continuously contrast it with the cruelty of our surrounding reality. Arbesser’s clothes aim to combine poetic and colorful elements with the rigor of the uniform, yet enhanced by a bold choice of colors. 

The trapeze artist Marion - one of the film’s central characters – enriches Arbesser’s imagination with expressive elements: The fabulous world of the circus with its performances, ballerina and clown costumes, various patterns and graphics. Ambiguous cabarets as well as Berlin’s underground world of the past and the present play a key role. All full of life, unconventional and unpredictable. 

This Leitmotiv is linked to the Show’s location: the caserm’s bakery dating back to the late 1800 was not only used in the past to supply bread to military complexes in Lombardy, but moreover to nourish the entire city of Milan during World War II. Under several layers of different time periods a real gem of industrial architecture and a powerful symbol of humanity is to be discovered. 

Special attention was given to fabrics, graphics and jacquards, which were exclusively created by the designer aiming to infuse natural fibers with a futuristic look: the Tuscan Casentino or Austrian Loden were consciously mixed with technical, metallic or transparent fabrics and padded protective layers. The knitwear, one of Arbesser’s passions, shows delicate workmanship like intarsia knit, transparent inserts or geometric jacquards in precious yarns. 

Photo    Tieto Mallamo 

Graphic Designer    Vittorio Valigi 

All photos    @Arthur Arbesser, Fall Winter17 Fashion Show, Backstage