MFW MEN’S Recap

Milan Men’s Fashion Week Spring Summer 2018

For most people, the month of June is strictly connected to the desire for holidays; for the fashion devotees, this month is purely connected to the Men's Fashion Weeks with endless shows, presentations, and parties, unfolding within an international context. 

This is what unFLOP loved the most at the Spring Summer 2018 Milan Men's Fashion Week:

Prada, once again chooses to explore and interpret the theme of contrasting aesthetics,  played out in a uniquely beautiful way through different codes and garments.

In today’s virtual world of technological overabundance, Miuccia requests more humanity; "Comics are my recent obsession" - said Miuccia Prada after the show, in reference to the comics by Taiwanese James Jean and Belgian Ollie Schrauwen. For Miuccia, comics serve as an escape from the growing virtuality in our lives and all that the future could behold.  

Nylon working suits, sealed on the bottom with bands of urban bikers, striped polo shirts, marsupiums, striped cotton suits, shorts combined with silk socks and polished laces or studded sandals, were only some of the Miuccia catwalk players. 

Garments with artists’ designs are confirmed to be the must-have of the season.  The “Made In Italy Lady” also proposed the brand’s emblematic shirts with contrasting collar along with belts, sweaters, and light zipped jackets, leaving, as always, a pleasant and memorable mark.

For his second men's show at Marni, Francesco Risso, who joined from Prada, risked and did it his way, proving his fearless creative mind during a Fashion phase ruled by the commercial copy and paste.  

His work is described by a poetic game, analogous to a child playing with his father's wardrobe: soft and delicate shapes, pinstriped suits of different entwined hues, oversized silhouettes, hanging ties, V necks and knitwears with unexpected details, such as the images drawn for the occasion by the artist Magdalena Suarez. In short, Risso's promising talent has plenty to reveal.

The independent Andrea Pompilio, designer of his homonymous brand, presented a wardrobe dedicated to travelers; travelers who want to avoid looking like tourists but rather want to blend in; they want to be seen and welcomed as locals, even at the most exotic places.

Pompilio’s most classic pieces are contaminated with colorful and ironic elements, such as Mexican embroideries on the shirt, cotton jumpers and t-shirt pockets, along with the iconic giraffe print of the season. Pompilio's old style approach, reflects a know-how in tailoring and Italian Design, while revealing a young, and contemporary spirit, in terms of the shapes, fit and textiles.

Lightness is the slogan for Spring Summer 2018 Men’s Collection by Alessandro Sartori, creative director at Ermenegildo Zegna House. 

Color Lightness with a chromatic pallet ranging from beige to all earthy and natural colors, to eventually reach the blue hues for lighter individual garments. The collection is a mix between sportswear and tailoring, the new definition of contemporary style. 

Inside a Milanese Art High School, Loris Messina and Simone Rizzo the duo behind Sunnei presented their latest collection. Their original and wearable aesthetic is interpreted in everyday garments, reminiscent of the designer duo’s travels, imaginaries and random daily life experiences. Wide legged jeans with patches, crinkly cotton suits paired with cropped trousers; coppery or silvery metallic fabrics for T-shirts and jackets, and boxy garage mechanic suits, are only some of the Sunnei stylistic highlights. A collection assuring special Summer Days, adapt for the millennials who do not take themselves too seriously, 

Donatella Versace paid a homage to her brother Gianni, 20 years post the designer’s death, bringing back the most iconic elements of the brand, such as the studs and prints, as well as the renowned Archive Edition of the Versace Model Logo, the golden jellyfish.

The essence of Alessandro dell'Acqua Spring Summer 2018 Men’s Collection for No. 21, was summed up in one word:  NONCHALANCE for the NonChalants. 

The collection, which was inspired by Bruce Weber’s 80’s pictures, was defined by a relaxed mood and a sense of freedom suitable for today’s urban gentleman. Sporty yet chic, precise and masculine yet with an overall delicate sensibility. Dell’Acqua goes for a joyful summer spelled in different types of plaids, wide pants paired up beautifully with sneakers, comfortable jerseys, t-shirts and deconstructed jackets. Alessandro Dell’Acqua’s creative effort might be carrying some references from other brands, however his NONCHALANCE attitude brings forward a unique, cool, easy and laid back summer style, that grows stronger with its wearer. 

* You can find No.21’s new headquarter in via Archimede 26, Milano.

More to follow with the Paris Men’s Fashion Week (June21 - 25, 2017). Stay Tuned unFLOPPERS.  

Words    Alessandro Ieva, AnnieMarkitanis