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MARTA MARTINO

unbelievable knack unFlop | unbelievable knack
29 MARCH 2017

MARTA MARTINO


www.martamartino.com



How Many Marta Are There In Martino?

Many and only one….


What scares you the most about the depersonalized tendency, as a result of the technological overabundance, that characterizes our daily lives?

Nothing particularly frightens me, every period has positives and negatives, but homogenisation can be a risk if you pay too much attention to what others think.. you need a healthy dose of ‘keeping yourself to yourself’ and introspection, from my personal point of view. 


How would you describe your relationship with Fashion? What do you like and what do you dislike in today’s fashion industry?

I have a very nonconforming relationship, I hold rather an indie point of view but I also really appreciate different mainstream projects when they allow creative folk to express themselves (giving them access to means that they normally wouldn’t have been able to access on their own). I don’t like superficiality or homogenisation, I like having free expression when it really is free. Being provocative does not mean being free and in our sector often it’s the one who shouts the loudest who wins.


If you could choose one word/phrase to describe the main essence that defines your so far collections, what would it be?

Revolution/Evolution. 


Personal Evolution is…

Being hard on ourselves, doing a bit of soul-searching, suffering and digging deep


Which are the main components of Marta Martino’s universe?

Seeking, experimenting, imbalance, evolution.


Favorite artist? (Living Or Not)

John Baldessari, Louise Bourgeois, Francis Bacon, but I don’t have one favorite. 


Favorite photographer?

Robert Mapplethorpe - Living: David Sims - Emerging: Andrea Maino, with whom I collaborate.


If you were to turn back time to when Marta was a 12-year-old girl, what advice would you give to her?

Be Yourself And Push Hard


Personal success is…

Living by what you’re really passionate about.


Does your home reflect the same aesthetic that you infuse into your Design work?

I don’t know, I don’t think about it, but I think so, yes.


What is the role of research and experimentation in your work?

Very important, it helps me carve out a clearer identity for myself and push my boundaries.


Which are the plus and which are the minus in being an Italian creative talent in today’s Italian territory?

Italianness has an age-old taste about it, sometimes stale, sometimes a refuge for people who have nothing else to say. For us it’s a resource, we have fantastic companies from textiles through to specialist manufacturers and a load of precious history in the hands and heads of people in the sector.


Contemporary Luxury Is….

Time and awareness.


What inspires Marta Martino?

I think whatever I live, deal with, love or hate.


Boundaries are …

Unreal


Can you please explain your creative process? (From the moment you choose the theme of your next collection to the moment of its actual realization)…

The process is continually developing, evolving; there’s no break between one collection and another. Every new design brings with it part of the previous one and at the same time it reveals some new element. I try to represent an abstract idea through a detail or a fit. Sometimes I think it’s quite easy to spot, but other times it’s just something in my head. So I compare myself with people who work with me to create the first designs. In a few cases we go straight to production and try to work on the mannequin a lot, something that leaves me freer to experiment. I have a deep understanding with the people who work with me on a project, sometimes we don’t need words, a glance is enough to make ourselves understood: these things are elements of great luck and a source of great satisfaction for me today. And it’s in this way that we’ve been able to build highly complex collections like TEN.


How about your FW17/18 TEN Collection? What is the concept running through this new collection and what does it aim to communicate to us?

I focus on the concept of a cage in the new TEN project. My personal interpretation of a cage turns the whole idea of imprisonment or repression on its head and I redefine ‘cage’ as a place of freedom in which one can grow. I see a cage as a mask, an exoskeleton that protects. The cage as a safe setting for personal evolution.  The cage as a guarantee of privacy to create positive solitude, that introspective solitude that is fundamental to be able to evolve quickly and consciously. The TEN project unites this concept with the techniques of handmade craftsmanship to create airy cage forms made of strands of black imitation leather, twisted and pulled to make light, semi-rigid structures for placing over the delicate fine mousseline and chiffon fabrics of the soul inside.  


Which are the winning cards of the New FW17/18 Collection?

It’s a pure collection, intimate but at the same time very precise and accessible, even marketing-wise.


Are there any specific materials that you prefer to work with?

I like the simplest fabrics like cotton poplin, cady and denim. Then I enjoy using vinyl and imitation leather. In any particular collection I always try to develop a fabric or an exclusive detail in collaboration with companies I’ve been working with over time.


What Do Women Want?

I’d ask each one, each one is different. 


What’s Up Next For Marta Martino?

We’re planning direct sales events at our atelier. We are weighing up the possibility of bringing out a small, really special capsule collection in the pre-collection season. We shall be continuing with the jewellery collection…




Content/Words/Interview    Annie Markitanis








TEN

‘The Cage’


I feel safe here

Not hearing, listening, isolated

Talking to myself about me 

I cage myself and I rest

I cage myself and I contemplate

I see others in cages and I observe 

Inside my cage, I find peace


My head, my cage

My body, my cage


I open the doors, I become aware 

There are few things here, ever fewer things,


I stop thinking

I breathe slowly and let the emptiness come 

White – dark – skin


This is my home

This is what I have

A safe place


I won’t let you in today



Film    TEN
Regista    Giulia Achenza
Starring    Eloisa Reverie Vezzosi
Sound    Lorenzo Achenza,  Marco de Turco   













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